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Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach. / Brown, Jenna A.; MacMahan, Jamie H.; Reniers, Ad J.H.M.; Thornton, Ed B.; Shanks, Alan L.; Morgan, Steven G.; Gallagher, Edie L.

In: Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 178, 2019, p. 1-14.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleScientificpeer-review

Harvard

Brown, JA, MacMahan, JH, Reniers, AJHM, Thornton, EB, Shanks, AL, Morgan, SG & Gallagher, EL 2019, 'Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach' Continental Shelf Research, vol. 178, pp. 1-14. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.03.009

APA

Brown, J. A., MacMahan, J. H., Reniers, A. J. H. M., Thornton, E. B., Shanks, A. L., Morgan, S. G., & Gallagher, E. L. (2019). Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach. Continental Shelf Research, 178, 1-14. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.03.009

Vancouver

Brown JA, MacMahan JH, Reniers AJHM, Thornton EB, Shanks AL, Morgan SG et al. Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach. Continental Shelf Research. 2019;178:1-14. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.03.009

Author

Brown, Jenna A. ; MacMahan, Jamie H. ; Reniers, Ad J.H.M. ; Thornton, Ed B. ; Shanks, Alan L. ; Morgan, Steven G. ; Gallagher, Edie L. / Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach. In: Continental Shelf Research. 2019 ; Vol. 178. pp. 1-14.

BibTeX

@article{14f328edd0b64bc4be31f2c9c8a08231,
title = "Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach",
abstract = "Surfzone mixing and transport on a sandy, steep (∼1/8 slope), reflective beach at Carmel River State Beach, California, are described for a range of wave and alongshore flow conditions. Depth-limited wave breaking occurred close to the shore due to the steepness of the beach, creating a narrow surf/swash zone (∼10 m wide). Fluorescent Rhodamine dye was released as a slug in the surfzone, and the temporal and spatial evolution was measured using in-situ dye sensors. Dye concentration measured as a function of time reveals sharp fronts that quickly decay resulting in narrow peaks near the dye release, which subsequently broaden and decrease in peak concentration with alongshore distance. The measurements indicate two stages of mixing and transport occur inside the surfzone on the steep beach. 1) In the near-field (<50 m downstream of the dye release location), the dye fully mixed throughout the water column after a few incident waves then continued to disperse in two dimensions, with both advection and diffusion processes being important. 2) In the far-field (>50 m downstream from the dye release location), the mass transport was dominated by advection. The distance to the far-field is much shorter in the alongshore on a steep beach compared with a dissipative beach. Estimates of cross-shore and alongshore diffusion coefficients (κ x , κ y ) were found to be similar in magnitude within the surfzone. Outside the surfzone in the far-field, the results suggest that the mixing processes are independent of those inside the surfzone. The mixing and transport of material observed on this steep beach are found to be analogous to that previously measured on dissipative beaches, however the diffusion coefficients within and outside the surfzone were found to be smaller on this steep beach.",
keywords = "Diffusion, Dispersion, Dye, Mass transport, Steep beach, Surfzone",
author = "Brown, {Jenna A.} and MacMahan, {Jamie H.} and Reniers, {Ad J.H.M.} and Thornton, {Ed B.} and Shanks, {Alan L.} and Morgan, {Steven G.} and Gallagher, {Edie L.}",
note = "Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.",
year = "2019",
doi = "10.1016/j.csr.2019.03.009",
language = "English",
volume = "178",
pages = "1--14",
journal = "Continental Shelf Research",
issn = "0278-4343",
publisher = "Elsevier",

}

RIS

TY - JOUR

T1 - Observations of mixing and transport on a steep beach

AU - Brown, Jenna A.

AU - MacMahan, Jamie H.

AU - Reniers, Ad J.H.M.

AU - Thornton, Ed B.

AU - Shanks, Alan L.

AU - Morgan, Steven G.

AU - Gallagher, Edie L.

N1 - Green Open Access added to TU Delft Institutional Repository ‘You share, we take care!’ – Taverne project https://www.openaccess.nl/en/you-share-we-take-care Otherwise as indicated in the copyright section: the publisher is the copyright holder of this work and the author uses the Dutch legislation to make this work public.

PY - 2019

Y1 - 2019

N2 - Surfzone mixing and transport on a sandy, steep (∼1/8 slope), reflective beach at Carmel River State Beach, California, are described for a range of wave and alongshore flow conditions. Depth-limited wave breaking occurred close to the shore due to the steepness of the beach, creating a narrow surf/swash zone (∼10 m wide). Fluorescent Rhodamine dye was released as a slug in the surfzone, and the temporal and spatial evolution was measured using in-situ dye sensors. Dye concentration measured as a function of time reveals sharp fronts that quickly decay resulting in narrow peaks near the dye release, which subsequently broaden and decrease in peak concentration with alongshore distance. The measurements indicate two stages of mixing and transport occur inside the surfzone on the steep beach. 1) In the near-field (<50 m downstream of the dye release location), the dye fully mixed throughout the water column after a few incident waves then continued to disperse in two dimensions, with both advection and diffusion processes being important. 2) In the far-field (>50 m downstream from the dye release location), the mass transport was dominated by advection. The distance to the far-field is much shorter in the alongshore on a steep beach compared with a dissipative beach. Estimates of cross-shore and alongshore diffusion coefficients (κ x , κ y ) were found to be similar in magnitude within the surfzone. Outside the surfzone in the far-field, the results suggest that the mixing processes are independent of those inside the surfzone. The mixing and transport of material observed on this steep beach are found to be analogous to that previously measured on dissipative beaches, however the diffusion coefficients within and outside the surfzone were found to be smaller on this steep beach.

AB - Surfzone mixing and transport on a sandy, steep (∼1/8 slope), reflective beach at Carmel River State Beach, California, are described for a range of wave and alongshore flow conditions. Depth-limited wave breaking occurred close to the shore due to the steepness of the beach, creating a narrow surf/swash zone (∼10 m wide). Fluorescent Rhodamine dye was released as a slug in the surfzone, and the temporal and spatial evolution was measured using in-situ dye sensors. Dye concentration measured as a function of time reveals sharp fronts that quickly decay resulting in narrow peaks near the dye release, which subsequently broaden and decrease in peak concentration with alongshore distance. The measurements indicate two stages of mixing and transport occur inside the surfzone on the steep beach. 1) In the near-field (<50 m downstream of the dye release location), the dye fully mixed throughout the water column after a few incident waves then continued to disperse in two dimensions, with both advection and diffusion processes being important. 2) In the far-field (>50 m downstream from the dye release location), the mass transport was dominated by advection. The distance to the far-field is much shorter in the alongshore on a steep beach compared with a dissipative beach. Estimates of cross-shore and alongshore diffusion coefficients (κ x , κ y ) were found to be similar in magnitude within the surfzone. Outside the surfzone in the far-field, the results suggest that the mixing processes are independent of those inside the surfzone. The mixing and transport of material observed on this steep beach are found to be analogous to that previously measured on dissipative beaches, however the diffusion coefficients within and outside the surfzone were found to be smaller on this steep beach.

KW - Diffusion

KW - Dispersion

KW - Dye

KW - Mass transport

KW - Steep beach

KW - Surfzone

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85063435235&partnerID=8YFLogxK

U2 - 10.1016/j.csr.2019.03.009

DO - 10.1016/j.csr.2019.03.009

M3 - Article

VL - 178

SP - 1

EP - 14

JO - Continental Shelf Research

T2 - Continental Shelf Research

JF - Continental Shelf Research

SN - 0278-4343

ER -

ID: 52904059