On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity

M.A. de Schipper; R. Ranasinghe; A.J.H.M. Reniers; M.J.F. Stive

doi:10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.47

On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity

M.A. de Schipper, R. Ranasinghe, A.J.H.M. Reniers, M.J.F. Stive

Hydraulic Structures and Flood Risk

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference proceedings/Edited volume › Conference contribution › Scientific › peer-review

Abstract

Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity.

Original language	English
Title of host publication	Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010
Editors	J McKee Smith, P Lynett
Place of Publication	s.l.
Publisher	s.n.
Pages	1-14
Number of pages	14
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.47
Publication status	Published - 2011
Event	32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering - s.l., Shanghai, China Duration: 30 Jun 2010 → 5 Jul 2010 Conference number: 32

Publication series

Name	Coastal Engineering Proceedings
Number	32

Conference

Conference	32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Abbreviated title	ICCE 2010
Country/Territory	China
City	Shanghai
Period	30/06/10 → 5/07/10

Bibliographical note

geen ISBN

Keywords

Nearshore sandbars
Rhythmicity
Wave groups

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10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.47

Cite this

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title = "On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity",

abstract = "Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity.",

keywords = "Nearshore sandbars, Rhythmicity, Wave groups",

author = "{de Schipper}, M.A. and R. Ranasinghe and A.J.H.M. Reniers and M.J.F. Stive",

note = "geen ISBN; 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010 ; Conference date: 30-06-2010 Through 05-07-2010",

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language = "English",

series = "Coastal Engineering Proceedings",

publisher = "s.n.",

number = "32",

pages = "1--14",

editor = "{McKee Smith}, J and P Lynett",

booktitle = "Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010",

}

de Schipper, MA, Ranasinghe, R, Reniers, AJHM & Stive, MJF 2011, On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity. in J McKee Smith & P Lynett (eds), Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, no. 32, s.n., s.l., pp. 1-14, 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 30/06/10. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.sediment.47

On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity. / de Schipper, M.A.; Ranasinghe, R.; Reniers, A.J.H.M. et al.
Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010. ed. / J McKee Smith; P Lynett. s.l.: s.n., 2011. p. 1-14 (Coastal Engineering Proceedings; No. 32).

Research output: Chapter in Book/Conference proceedings/Edited volume › Conference contribution › Scientific › peer-review

TY - GEN

T1 - On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity

AU - de Schipper, M.A.

AU - Ranasinghe, R.

AU - Reniers, A.J.H.M.

AU - Stive, M.J.F.

N1 - Conference code: 32

PY - 2011

Y1 - 2011

N2 - Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity.

AB - Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological rhythmicity. Narrow-banded and long wave period, both proxies for swell waves, are often found to be present prior to the initiation of rhythmicity. Furthermore, numerical model computations illustrate that swell waves induce significantly larger wave group induced velocities on the bar. These findings imply that the arrival of swell waves can initiate and stimulate the nearshore morphological rhythmicity.

KW - Nearshore sandbars

KW - Rhythmicity

KW - Wave groups

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T3 - Coastal Engineering Proceedings

SP - 1

EP - 14

BT - Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2010

A2 - McKee Smith, J

A2 - Lynett, P

PB - s.n.

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T2 - 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering

Y2 - 30 June 2010 through 5 July 2010

ER -

On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity

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