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Wave transformation over a barrier reef. / Sous, Damien; Tissier, Marion; Rey, Vincent; Touboul, Julien; Bouchette, Frédéric; Devenon, Jean Luc; Chevalier, Cristele; Aucan, Jerôme.

In: Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 184, 2019, p. 66-80.

Research output: Contribution to journalArticleScientificpeer-review

Harvard

Sous, D, Tissier, M, Rey, V, Touboul, J, Bouchette, F, Devenon, JL, Chevalier, C & Aucan, J 2019, 'Wave transformation over a barrier reef' Continental Shelf Research, vol. 184, pp. 66-80. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

APA

Sous, D., Tissier, M., Rey, V., Touboul, J., Bouchette, F., Devenon, J. L., ... Aucan, J. (2019). Wave transformation over a barrier reef. Continental Shelf Research, 184, 66-80. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

Vancouver

Sous D, Tissier M, Rey V, Touboul J, Bouchette F, Devenon JL et al. Wave transformation over a barrier reef. Continental Shelf Research. 2019;184:66-80. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

Author

Sous, Damien ; Tissier, Marion ; Rey, Vincent ; Touboul, Julien ; Bouchette, Frédéric ; Devenon, Jean Luc ; Chevalier, Cristele ; Aucan, Jerôme. / Wave transformation over a barrier reef. In: Continental Shelf Research. 2019 ; Vol. 184. pp. 66-80.

BibTeX

@article{e5aa10f90720401092bb6bca28d0461a,
title = "Wave transformation over a barrier reef",
abstract = "This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.",
keywords = "Field experiments, Infragravity waves, Reef barrier, Shallow water model, Undular bores, Very low frequency, Wave transformation",
author = "Damien Sous and Marion Tissier and Vincent Rey and Julien Touboul and Fr{\'e}d{\'e}ric Bouchette and Devenon, {Jean Luc} and Cristele Chevalier and Jer{\^o}me Aucan",
year = "2019",
doi = "10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010",
language = "English",
volume = "184",
pages = "66--80",
journal = "Continental Shelf Research",
issn = "0278-4343",
publisher = "Elsevier",

}

RIS

TY - JOUR

T1 - Wave transformation over a barrier reef

AU - Sous, Damien

AU - Tissier, Marion

AU - Rey, Vincent

AU - Touboul, Julien

AU - Bouchette, Frédéric

AU - Devenon, Jean Luc

AU - Chevalier, Cristele

AU - Aucan, Jerôme

PY - 2019

Y1 - 2019

N2 - This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.

AB - This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.

KW - Field experiments

KW - Infragravity waves

KW - Reef barrier

KW - Shallow water model

KW - Undular bores

KW - Very low frequency

KW - Wave transformation

UR - http://www.scopus.com/inward/record.url?scp=85069584190&partnerID=8YFLogxK

U2 - 10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

DO - 10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

M3 - Article

VL - 184

SP - 66

EP - 80

JO - Continental Shelf Research

T2 - Continental Shelf Research

JF - Continental Shelf Research

SN - 0278-4343

ER -

ID: 55589478