Wave transformation over a barrier reef

Damien Sous; Marion Tissier; Vincent Rey; Julien Touboul; Frédéric Bouchette; Jean Luc Devenon; Cristele Chevalier; Jerôme Aucan

doi:10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

Wave transformation over a barrier reef

Damien Sous^*, Marion Tissier, Vincent Rey, Julien Touboul, Frédéric Bouchette, Jean Luc Devenon, Cristele Chevalier, Jerôme Aucan

^*Corresponding author for this work

Environmental Fluid Mechanics

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › Scientific › peer-review

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Abstract

This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.

Original language	English
Pages (from-to)	66-80
Number of pages	15
Journal	Continental Shelf Research
Volume	184
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010
Publication status	Published - 2019

Keywords

Field experiments
Infragravity waves
Reef barrier
Shallow water model
Undular bores
Very low frequency
Wave transformation

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10.1016/j.csr.2019.07.010

Sous_et_al_2019_Rev2Accepted author manuscript, 4.53 MBLicence: CC BY-NC-ND

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title = "Wave transformation over a barrier reef",

abstract = "This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.",

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T1 - Wave transformation over a barrier reef

AU - Sous, Damien

AU - Tissier, Marion

AU - Rey, Vincent

AU - Touboul, Julien

AU - Bouchette, Frédéric

AU - Devenon, Jean Luc

AU - Chevalier, Cristele

AU - Aucan, Jerôme

PY - 2019

Y1 - 2019

N2 - This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.

AB - This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.

KW - Field experiments

KW - Infragravity waves

KW - Reef barrier

KW - Shallow water model

KW - Undular bores

KW - Very low frequency

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SN - 0278-4343

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SP - 66

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JO - Continental Shelf Research

JF - Continental Shelf Research

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Wave transformation over a barrier reef

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Keywords

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